Saturday, November 12, 2005
A few weeks back a friend came for a visit to bestow my balcony with some greenery and a grill. Snazzed up balcony + grill = time to barbecue with friends. Since this is Taiwan, I thought I'd offer some seafood options for the make-your-own-kebob shin-dig and I headed to the grocery store to pick up some squid and shrimp.
Now normally at the grocery store as I pass by the meat and fish departments on my way to produce, my eyes are greeted by a variety of fresh fish and seafood. However, on the day I need to buy things, all I can find are fish and fish heads. That's right, fish heads on ice, fish heads on trays wrapped in plastic, big ones, small ones, fish heads, fish heads, fish heads! For about $5 or $6 US, you could be the proud owner of a fish head.
Needless to say, 5 stores later I finally found what I was after and headed home for a fish head free barbecue. Of course as I headed back to the grocery store this week and once again passed through the fish department, I couldn't help but notice they were once again fully stocked with fresh squid and shrimp. Why is it that my endeavors in cooking rarely require a trip to fewer than 3 stores to obtain necessary ingredients? Grrrr...
P.S. While you may fish heads at the super market please note that roly poly fish heads are never seen drinking cappuchino in Italian restraunts with Oriental women.....yeah....
Tuesday, November 08, 2005
Not to be confused with R.O.U.S.s (Rodents of Unusual Size), R.F.O.s are what greet you like a brick wall as you pull up to a red light, go for a jog at the park, step out of the 7-Eleven, or open the door to your apartment. They are the Random Foul Odors that pervade Taiwan, permeating from a drain system nearest you. There's no mistaking an R.F.O. and there's little hiding the cringed face that takes over upon noticing the unpleasant aroma. Waiting to Exhale may be a movie, but waiting to inhale becomes standard practice as the search begins for a pocket of fresh air.
Sunday, November 06, 2005
Sleep has always been a funny thing for me. It's the thing I hate giving into at night yet hate letting go of in the morning. Whether luxury or necessary evil, sleep is also what I've been living with in short supply lately. For the past few weeks I've been dealing with insomnia, last week being the worst where I averaged 1-3 hours of sleep per day for over a week. Well it's all fun and games until you forget where you're going in traffic.
It didn't help the situation that I'm by nature a night owl and love being awake at night. There's just something very peaceful about being up while the city sleeps and watching the morning light break the night sky can be worth staying up for too. Also, I'm just more productive at night - that's when I'm best able to get things done. And finally, I work so much that if there's something that needs to get done, basically night is the only time for it to happen.
What can start out as annoying, not being able to sleep, can soon feel like I dose on invincibility - feeling super-charged and rarely tired by night or day. But finally the breaking point comes when the ability to function properly during the waking hours becomes impaired and rest becomes imperative. That's where I found myself last weekend - sleep necessary but still unattainable. However, by Sunday the spell of sleeplessness was finally broken and rest has been coming in large doses since then.
After a two month break, I returned to running after work this week, further ensuring my exhaustion and ability to slip into sleep at night. So, gone are my nights of being up until 4:30 or 6:30am, for now at least. I'm slightly sad to part with the night and I hate that I'm too worn out to get much done in the evenings, but sleep can be good too. At my former apartment, scrolled across the side of the fridge was "Sleep is a weapon." Guess someone else needed to be reminded of that too.
Thursday, October 27, 2005
I know autumn arrived about a month ago, but there's just something about Fall that doesn't seem official until it's October. Perhaps that's when the autumn chill really sets in and the days stop swaying back and forth to warmer temperatures but instead become progressively cooler. While the sky may still be sunny, the wind gusts cold and there's a crispness to the air.
Fall finally arrived on the island last week. What a refreshing change to drive in cooler morning and evening air. While I can still make use of shorts, t's, and flops during the day, a jacket is required during the hours of less to no sunlight. What pleases me the most is the break from the humidity. I'm actually enjoying the warm air in my apartment now rather than feeling suffocated by it. And it's nice to not have to run the air conditioning as often. I look forward to soon making use of warm clothes.
Something I do miss are the colors of fall. I miss seeing the leaves change and the colorful scenery a drive through the country or mountains provides. I'm hoping to see some changing maple leaves in November. There is an area in the north where this will supposedly occur next month so I'm looking forward to getting away for a weekend again soon. Perhaps I'll soon have photo proof that Fall exists in Taiwan.
Sunday, October 23, 2005
One of the things I loved about growing up in Pennsylvania was experiencing the 4 seasons. Winter, Spring, Summer, Fall - each is distinct and beautiful. While the changing of seasons is still noticeable in Taiwan, gone is the flare for the dramatic. Here's what I miss:
Spring
striking colors of tulips, fragrance of hyacinths in the air, sight and sweet smell of lilac bushes full of blossoms, driving in spring rain showers, the smell of the grass and forest after the rain, the way rain makes colors darker and richer, new life - baby rabbits frolicking in the backyard and baby birds chirping in the bushes
Summer
staying outside until 9:00pm and still having traces of daylight, stars (I miss them any time of the year), walking barefoot in the grass, smell of fresh cut lawns and food cooking on the grill, warm sun, driving through the country and seeing how things grow from week to week, fresh veggies from the garden, rolling green fields, mountains covered in green, scenic road trips, sweet corn, campfires, mountain pies and smores, picnics and gatherings with friends and family
Fall
arrival of colder air, windows and lawns decorated by the first frosts, mountains painted in colors of rich reds, yellows, and oranges, apple cider, Fall festivals, soccer matches, Thanksgiving
Winter
the earth blanketed in white, the comfort of fleece, wool, and cashmere, down comforters, warming by a fireplace after skiing, the way fields of snow glisten in the moonlight, white earth against black sky lit with stars, crisp air, meteor showers, Aurora Borealis
What is sure to be the first in a series of installments, here are some of my favorite questions from the English Version of the Taiwan Motorcyclists Driver's Manual - the booklet to be reviewed for the written component of the motorcycle driver's license test.
1. When riding, if you see an accident you should (a) leave right now (b) stay and help the injured and be a witness (c) lie if the police inquire. Correct answer: b
2. If you ride and fall down because of oil on the road, you should (a) take it as bad luck and leave right away (b) report to the nearest police station (c) put tree branches or visible markings on the area to warn other drivers. Correct answer: c
3. When riding in the country, you see a flock of geese crossing the road you should (a) honk loudly to make them hurry up (b) speed up and pass (c) slow down and wait for them to pass, then move. Correct answer: c
Though I think you're more likely to encounter a herd of cows or water buffalo than geese.
4. When riding through an urban area of disorder traffic or a road construction section, you should (a) speed up to pass quickly (b) honk fiercely as you ride (c) give way for each other. Correct answer: c
However, experience in traffic will convince you that most believe the correct response to be a combination of a and b - speed up and honk fiercely.
5. If a motorcyclist wants to be honored, happy, and safe on traffic, he should (a) have a sense of morality and follow the laws (b) have good riding skills (c) not smoke and drink.
Correct answer: a
Ride on, oh honored one.
6. To keep good traffic and safety on riding, who should you do first? (a) The traffic management authorities (b) the motorcyclist (c) the pedestrians. Correct answer: b
Umm, no thanks.
7. When a motorcyclist feels upset, the biggest weakness is to have (a) no friendliness (b) no sympathy (c) short temper. Correct answer: c
8. The most important thing for motorcyclists on handling accidents is (a) to be calm and safe (b) to be adventurous (c) to be optimistic and let it be. Correct answer: a
9. The biggest enemy of a motorcyclist is (a) carelessness (b) road barrier (c) animals on the road. Correct answer: a
Next week on Animal Planet: When Road Barriers Attack, I mean, When Street Dogs Attack
10. To insure the safety of oneself and other people, a motorcyclist should always make an effort on cultivating his morality and (a) control oneself and help others (b) refrain others from flaunting other's physical superiority (c) find ways to deal with people. Correct answer: a
Don't you just hate it when others go around flaunting their physical superiority while riding their scooter?
11. When you ride on a muddy road or a road which water has accumulated and there are pedestrians walking around, you should (a) reduce your speed and avoid splashing the dirty water on the pedestrians (b) speed up and rush into the road which water has accumulated (c) honk the horn to make the pedestrians go away. Correct answer: b
Obviously it would seem that the correct answer should be 'a', however, if you would not choose 'b' on the test, it would be wrong. In Taiwan, too often it's accepted that things must be true or correct if they're printed in texts. I've had encounters where people would rather have others believe something that is false than admit that the book it is from could have an error. For example, I had a class of 40 Jr. High students argue with me that there are 51 states in the U.S. because their text book stated so and having lived in the U.S. for 23 years did not make me a reliable source on knowing how many states there actually are.
Well, I hope you've enjoyed these driver's manual questions. Until next time ...
Thursday, October 13, 2005
Monday night I returned from a 3 day weekend escape. Since time off for holidays is rare and 3 day weekends rarer still, I usually spend far too much time thinking about how to best spend the time off. Despite temptations to go to Hong Kong or desires to go somewhere outdoors and scenic, I settled on visiting a friend in Taipei I haven't seen since April.
My friend Grace just moved to a new house ten days prior to my visit and was still getting settled when I arrived. Her new abode is high on a mountain on the outskirts of Taipei, nearly an hour commute from her school in the city. Though the mountain's fog prevailed my three day visit, it was clear to me why she'd sacrifice sleep to make the commute to and from her heavenly new home.
We're not in Kansas anymore
Despite exchanging one city for another this past weekend, I felt like I had accomplished my goal of escaping Taiwan or at least the city for the weekend. Surrounded by crisp, clean, mountain air, abundant greenery, fog and light showers, the sound of frogs and crickets at night, and a star lit sky, visiting Grace's house was a vacation in itself. Inspired partially by the climate and the European style architecture of the community, we headed to the Flower Market on Sunday afternoon. Grace's goal: to transfer her yard into an English garden.
Though filled with sufficient time to relax, the weekend passed quickly. By Monday morning, the sun finally broke through making for a spectacular view as we made our descent through clouds that appeared to hang effortlessly around us. I think I was still trying to get over the fact that something so beautiful was waiting just outside the city. While I hated to go, I look forward to returning for a visit once her house is set-up and her garden is in full bloom.
There are a few places in the North I'd like to explore and I had hoped the extended weekend would provide an opportunity for such an outing. That wasn't the case but no regrets. The weekend was full of many great experiences. Aside from hanging out on the mountain, here's my
Top 10 Things from the Weekend:
1) spending time with a friend

2) seeing a huge rainbow over Taipei
3) ferry ride and visit to fisherman's wharf
4) receiving an awesome birthday gift (belated in delivery)
5) eating out at a great restaurant - BEST pumpkin soup I've ever had!
6) shopping - Ikea, flower market, jade market (which happens to be the largest in Asia), Jason's - supermarket with tons of imported goods
7) Movenpick's pear sorbet - forget Swiss chocolate, go for Swiss sorbet
8) steamed squid on the pier - so fresh they're flavored by the salt of the ocean
9) colder weather - about a 20 degree difference between Grace's place and mine
10) funky new shoes at a low price
Hitches, Glitches, and Witches
The only real glitch to the weekend was getting back to my city by the end of Monday. Knowing that many people would be heading back to their perspective cities Monday night, I hoped to beat the rush by leaving late afternoon. Grace and I parted ways around 4:00 pm and I was off to the bus station. Much to my dismay, seats were already sold out for the rest of the day with the bus company I had used for my trip north. The particular street I was on leads the the main train station (within sight of bus station) and the street is lined with additional bus companies. It was likely that the seats for the train would be sold out and a ticket would be for standing room only. Standing for a 5+ hour train ride with my bags from shopping did not rank high on my list of things to do for the day so I decided to head in the direction of the train station and stop at each bus company along the way.
Despite trying for an hour, I was not having any luck finding a bus. While I never panicked, there did come a moment when I felt like I'd have more luck finding someone heading back to Kaohsiung that I could hitch a ride with, though I wasn't actually considering it as an option. And there came another point when my bags were feeling heavy (the afore mentioned birthday gift was quite awkward to lug around) and all I wanted to do was be home, just be back in Kaohsiung already. I wanted to click the heals of my newly acquired ruby slippers and repeat "there's no place like home, there's no place like home."
At last, success was found at the last bus station I came to before the train station. I had no trouble getting a seat for their next bus to my city. Just a 20 minute wait, and I was off on my long ride home. Saturday, October 08, 2005
That's alien as in foreigner, and foreigner as in me. This afternoon, I learned what may happen when I try to move home from Taiwan.
Me: (to a class of 4th - 6th graders that I teach daily) Next week I will tell you when you will give your next speech.
Rosa: How about we give the speech next year, like next October 6.
Me: Oh, okay, so you want to say your speech for your new teacher next year.
Huh? - At this, the students looked at one another and me befuddled as in, why would I ever want to leave Taiwan?
Class: (random shouting) No! You can't go! You have to teach us! We love you!
Me: Yeah, right! That's why you always complain, don't listen, and don't finish your work.
Wayne: But what will you do? If you leave, you will have no money?
Me: I will get a new job in the U.S. I can't stay here forever. One day I will leave, but not right now. I will still be your teacher this year at least.
Wayne: If you try to move home, we will kidnap you and take you to a garage and tie you to a chair and we will come everyday and you will have to teach us English.
Me: Okay then, I won't tell you when I'm leaving.
Sam: That's okay. You can leave tomorrow. You can leave today.
Me: Thanks Sam.
Ruby: No! Don't listen to Sam. In his heart, he is really crying.
Sam: No!
Kelly: Sam, your heart is metal.
So, if it's around the time for me to return from Taiwan and I suddenly go missing, kindly alert the authorities to start tracking the comings and goings of a boy named Wayne.
Monday, October 03, 2005
Those who know me well know that I'm no stranger to migraines. We have a long history together. I can remember getting them as far back as 3rd grade. This afternoon I developed one while at work and it wasn't long before I knew I couldn't finish out my classes for the evening. Fortunately back-up was available in the form of a sub and shortly after my class let out at 6:30, I was on my way home to rest and recover.
Take two of these and call me in the morning.
As with most aliments, I've found that when people here have headaches, it's not uncommon for them to go to the doctors. Two reasons I suspect for this are 1) aisles of pain relievers don't seem to exist at the drugstores so finding the right pain reliever can be difficult or impossible 2) a trip to the dr. (which includes prescriptions) can be cheaper than picking something up from the drugstore to medicate yourself. Fortunately I have pain reliever at home and taking something and sleeping off the migraine seems to be the best remedy I've found.
Around the time I start to feel some relief, the nausea fades, my appetite picks up slightly, and all I want to eat is a poached egg and toast. For me, a poached egg is to a migraine what chicken soup is to a cold. It's not a cure, but somehow it just helps you feel better. It's a comfort food. I think it all began back in jr. high when, on occasion, I used to come home early from school due to a migraine. After I'd rested for a bit, my mom usually insisted that I have something to eat - probably because I'd missed lunch at school and because she didn't want me using medicine on an empty stomach. While I didn't feel much like eating (I usually felt like vomiting) she'd insist on at least making toast, and then along with it, she make me a poached egg. Somehow it just made me feel better, despite the fact that eggs often trigger headaches, and now I always associate the two. Tonight I had to make my own egg, for the first time I think, but it's the memories that count and it still helped me feel a bit better.
So how about you? What's your comfort food when sick or blue?
Wednesday, September 28, 2005
Today was Teacher's Day here in Taiwan. Though named Teacher's Day, we didn't get the day off of work. This day is actually set aside to mark the birthday of the revered Eastern scholar and teacher, Confucius. However, on this day awards are also given to outstanding educators throughout Taiwan.
Early this morning (around 6:00 am) at Confucius temples across Taiwan, people gathered to observe or participate in ritual celebrations. The ceremony follows 2,000 year old procedures to honor the educator. The morning's activities include ancient ceremonial dance and music played on traditional instruments, both performed in ceremonial costumes. The temple doors are opened to the sounds of drums and the blood and hair of sacrificed animals is symbolically buried, the gods are welcomed, incense is burned, and gifts are offered, among other activities.
An early ceremony was held around 6:00am. I think it's during this one that the animals are sacrificed and some of their blood and hair taken. We, however, did not actually get to see the animals.
Later (around 9:00am) a larger and more elaborate celebration was held. Noticing us foreigners among the crowd, a special welcome was made to us during the opening and quick arrangements were made to have some of the proceedings translated into English to help us better understand the ceremony.
The ceremony concluded with a hand washing ritual in which all in attendance could participate. Shutters clicked wildly as we were surrounded by photographers when we took our turn at the hand washing table. It was all very interesting and in the end I was glad I had sacrificed sleep to attend.While Confucianism is a philosophy rather than a religion, some have made a religion out of following his teachings. The ideas and philosophies taught by Confucius are still very much a part of Taiwan's culture and society.
Last year I found a good site explaining the ceremony. I hope to find it again and post it here for anyone interested in further reading on the subject.
Tuesday, September 27, 2005
Me (to my kindergarten class): How was your weekend?
Student: Bad. My mom went to Taipei.
Me: Oh, cool. So you got to have a boys' weekend at home - just
you, your brother, and your dad. So what did you do?
Student: I cried.
Quote of the Day:
"Teacher, your hair is like a Barbie."
No, I'm not referring to the Atlantic state, athletic clothing, or even a breed of Holstein. Rather, I'm talking about my jersey knit sheets.
Now my bed is not exactly what I'd call comfortable though it has been improved upon this year by the addition of a memory foam thanks to the generous birthday gift from my roommate. Since I spend too few hours sleeping, the quality of sleep I get is very important in order for me to function during the day. Since my trip home last summer, my slumber has benefited tremendously thanks to a set of jersey knit sheets. I love 'em.
While my roommate may have moved out a month ago, my old friend insomnia has been back for a visit these past few weeks. The past 2 weeks in particular have been filled with many long sleepless nights. In the month that I've been back from summer vacation, a lot has happened both in my life and in the lives of others I'm close to, so no doubt all the change and craziness may have triggered my sleepless state of being. Ever hear the Sleep song by Riley Armstrong? I feel like it's on repeat play in my head.
So, insomnia, jersey knit sheets - there really is a point to all of this. For the past 2 weeks I've also decided to switch back to my regular cotton sheets for awhile - in other words, I didn't feel like doing my laundry until I had to. While I used to like my old sheets, I don't find them as comfortable anymore. I happened to catch up on the olde laundry this past weekend and since switching back to the jersey knit, I find it much easier to lull myself back into the cozy comfort of my bed and easily drift to sleep. Coincidence? - Perhaps not. Only time will tell if the power of the jersey will help to break my cycle of sleeplessness. And on that note, I'm going to bed. Good night.
Friday, September 23, 2005
(according to my class of 4th-6th grade students)
Top answers given by the boys:
Wife
1. Makes a lot of money
2. Can do housework
3. Has a good heart
4. Beautiful
5. She's a teacher
6. She's a doctor
Top answers given by the girls:
Husband
1. Knows many languages
2. Smart
3. Doesn't go out to drink beer
4. Responsible
5. Listens to you
6. Doesn't smoke
This was one of the follow-up assignments after reading a true story about a man who had a classified ad for finding wife painted on the side of his truck. I was impressed that the students actually gave the assignment some serious thought and I was further impressed by the answers offered by the girls.
Not a single student out of 17 cared if their spouse could cook. I found this interesting because I think it holds a higher place in Western or American culture. When I pointed out the fact that no one mentioned cooking the boys laughed hysterically and most commented that their mom doesn't even know how to cook, so it's ok - they can eat out all the time. This of course explains why they're so easily impressed anytime I make something for them - like on the rare occasion, cookies, or even something as simple as jell-o or a boiled egg. Can't get much more basic than a boiled egg, yet when I cooked eggs for them to color last Easter, they raved about how delicious they were. Considering people eat eggs all the time in Taiwan and you can buy boiled "tea" eggs at the corner 7-Eleven, these kids are impressed way too easily.
Side note - Coolest way I've ever cooked an egg: on the beach in the boiling water of a natural saltwater hot spring - Green Island, Taiwan (one of only 3 hot springs in the world fed by saltwater).
Thursday, September 01, 2005
Batten down the hatches, the typhoon draws nigh. As I drove to work this morning, I could already feel the typhoon's approach in the occasional strong gusts of wind. By the afternoon, the underside of leaves on arching trees set the backdrop out classroom windows. By the time I arrived home this evening, the sound of the wind was growing louder and stronger.
And now the rain has begun. According to meteorological services, the eye of the storm is just beginning to pass over the island with winds gusting up to 111 mph. While the eye should be past the island by morning, the radius will continue to move over us until Thursday evening. This is the second typhoon to hit this summer, the first being in July while I was home in the States. However, it is only the beginning of typhoon season so more are in store.
What this means for me is that tomorrow is a Typhoon Day. It's kind of like the Snow Days I looked forward to as a kid only minus the snow and add in plenty of rain, strong wind, and humidity. So basically nothing like a Snow Day except that there's no school tomorrow. For the most part, when a typhoon hits, the island shuts down. I confess looking forward to Typhoon Days because I enjoy having a day off stranded indoors every now and then, though of course I'm concerned for the safety of others and hope the damage is minimal.
Sunday, August 28, 2005
Or at least that's what seems to happen each time I walk into my bathroom these days. It appears that a water pipe above my bathroom ceiling is leaking.
Gone are the days when I can pick up the phone and call a plumber. Being a foreigner in this foreign land called Taiwan has really challenged my independence. Growing up in the U.S. freedom and independence are points of pride. In school we learn how the United States fought for its freedom and independence. These are considered essentials in being a strong nation. Next, I grew up in a home where in order to function collectively, we needed to learn to function independently. Translation: we grew up having to do chores and having household responsibilities. We not only learned how to be responsible and help one another, we learned how to do things for ourselves and be independent. Finally, as a female, there are times I feel the need to prove myself as strong and independent.
And perhaps coming to Taiwan was yet another way of demonstrating independence - moving away from my family and showing what I could do "on my own". But the truth be known, moving, living, and working in Taiwan have very little to do with me doing things "on my own." It was through a friend that I came to know of the opportunity. It was through God's prompting and prayer that I felt led to come to Taiwan. It was through the support of my family that I moved here. It's through my school that I'm able to earn a living here. It's through great friends that I've made or have come to know better during the past 2 1/2 years as well as through God's sustaining, that I've been able to continue living here. And finally, it's through the assistance of those who can translate for me that I'm able to get through the chores of life.
It's quite humbling when tasks that were once simple to complete such as ordering food or a drink, buying a pair of shoes, or even getting a haircut suddenly require some amount of assistance. Granted, these are tasks that can be muddled through without help, but calling a plumber isn't one of them so now I'm at the mercy of others and the waiting begins.
Waiting for someone to help me call for a plumber.
Waiting for a day I can be home long enough for a plumber to come which probably means ...
Waiting through the week until next weekend after already
Waiting though much of this past week to see if the dripping would suddenly stop on its own.
So it could be as much as 2 weeks of waiting, getting dripped on in the bathroom, and watching my ceiling panels become more and more warped before anything gets done.
This weekend my roommate moved out. The events leading up to the big move all transpired quite fast. Basically what began last weekend as my roomie's search for an apartment for her boyfriend turned into them finding a place that they wanted to move into together. The grass is always greener and yes, while I know there are nicer places out there to be had, I like where I am quite well.
The movers were here bright and early on Saturday and after she was gone, the place suddenly felt quiet empty, not so much because of the things that are gone but because suddenly I'm alone. With returning from vacation recently and spending a lot of time at work, everything was happening too fast to process until after the fact.
Later in the morning when I went to the fridge and opened the door, I realized I own baking soda, and not much else. Sure, there was a pitcher of water and your basic condiments, but I've yet to grocery shop since returning from vacation nearly 2 weeks ago. Up until now the fridge had been full with my roommate's things so it at least gave the illusion that there was food in the house.
There is still a lot of cleaning to get done and some re-arranging and re-adjusting to do, but I'm somewhat looking forward to having the place to myself for a bit. I can appreciate the quiet and solitude, especially after a long day at work. However, don't be surprised to find me at home with everything that makes noise running just to feel like there's a bit more life in this place. I think I may buy a fish.
